A 3 Day Ulster-Scots Itinerary of the Ards Peninsula

Who: For those with a particular interest in the Ulster-Scots, history and heritage.
Where: Taking in the City of Bangor and Ards Peninsula
Duration: 3 Full Days / 2 Overnight Stays

Day 1  |  An Overview of North Down

SCRABO / NEWTOWNARDS / MOUNT STEWART / GREYABBEY

Scrabo Tower
Begin the day with a bracing walk to Scrabo Tower from where you can see the entire peninsula spread out to the south, with Strangford Lough to one side and the Irish Sea to the other.  On a clear day you will be able to see Scotland across the water and can understand the close geographical connections.

Beneath you is spread out the town of Newtownards, which dates from medieval times but was later developed as a market town by Sir Hugh Montgomery.  Head down into Newtownards to explore some sites of Ulster-Scots significance.

The Market Town of Newtownards

STOP 1 - The Old Market Cross
Sir Hugh Montgomery’s market town was incorporated by King James I in 1613; and the market still thrives every Saturday morning.  In the 17th century, the market was of crucial importance to the new town’s prosperity and this was symbolised by the construction of a market cross, dating from 1636.  It represented, in stone, what the town stood for – trade, market economy, progress and civilisation. 

STOP 2 - The Old Priory
Close by the market cross stood the ruins of a Dominican Friary founded in 1244 by the Savage family.  Sir Hugh Montgomery restored it as a Protestant church and his own home.  You can watch a video here: or occasionally the building is open for visitors.

STOP 3 - Newtownards Town Hall
Formerly the market house of Newtownards, this handsome building which dates from 1770, was seized by a force of United Irishmen, mostly Ulster-Scots Presbyterians from Bangor, Donaghadee, Greyabbey and Ballywalter, on their way to the Battle of Saintfield during the 1798 Rebellion.   The Town Hall is usually open and sometimes there are exhibitions ongoing.  Ask a member of staff if you can have a look at the former prison cells with their grilled windows; or the first floor Assembly Hall, known as the Londonderry Room, with its beautiful plasterwork cornices and portrait of Charles Stewart Henry Vane-Tempest-Stewart, 7th Marquess of Londonderry. 

STOP 4 - St Mark’s Parish Church
Described in 1832 as “the prettiest building in the town”, St Mark’s was built in 1817 as a new church for the Scottish colonists who had been worshipping in the Old Priory.  When the church is open, you can see an old bell and stained glass window, salvaged from the original church.

After enjoying some lunch or coffee in one of Newtownards’ many eating establishments, head out the Portaferry Road for an afternoon at:

 
Mount Stewart

Mount Stewart is an 18th-century house and garden now owned by the National Trust. It was the Irish seat of the Vane-Tempest-Stewart family, Marquesses of Londonderry. The house and its contents reflect the history of the Vane-Tempest-Stewart family, who played a leading role in British and Irish social and political life.  The family were of Scottish origin and bought the estate in 1744 with money acquired by Alexander Stewart (1699–1781) largely through his linen business.

The 7th Marquess (1878–1949) and his wife were largely responsible for the house we see today.  The Marchioness of Londonderry's ancestral home was Dunrobin Castle in Scotland and its gardens inspired those she designed here in Ulster.

You will need a couple of hours to take a guided tour of the house and also to explore the beautiful gardens.  After you leave, turn left and continue a short distance down the road to:

Greyabbey

Known locally as ‘Greba’, this picturesque village is named after a Cistercian abbey dating to 1193.  Many of the cottages belonged to Presbyterian weavers and farmers who settled here in the 17th century; and you’ll notice that the street names are displayed in both English and Ulster-Scots.

The magnificent Grey Abbey House can be visited by booking or appointment only.  The current house is the third one on the site, built in 1762. It’s a welcoming Georgian mansion with many interesting architectural features and fine 18th century plasterwork.  This site has been the home of members of the Montgomery family since Sir Hugh first arrived in Ulster in 1606.

While you’re in Greba, take a look at the old graveyard surrounding the abbey: there are many interesting graves including that of Reverend James Porter, a Presbyterian minister who was hanged for his alleged role in the 1798 United Irishman’s Rebellion.

 
Day 2 | In the footsteps of Hamilton and Montgomery

DONAGHADEE / GROOMSPORT / BANGOR

Donaghadee

Donaghaee has recently acquired a new measure of fame as the location of the TV series ‘Hope Street’ (now commissioned for a third series, 2023). However, it has been famous for centuries as an important sea passage for travellers coming from Portpatrick in Scotland to Ulster - a distance of only about 20 miles.  In 1606, the sea crossing took just three hours, and today it’s not much faster! 

STOP 1 - The Harbour
Stroll down the pier to the beautiful lighthouse and try to imagine how this place looked in the early 1600s when the Scots arrived.  Back then, there was only a small landing pier and about 10-20 mud huts in the area.   Hugh Montgomery set about developing proper harbours in both Portpatrick and Donaghadee and for the next 150 years, nearly everything that crossed from Scotland to Ulster went through these ports.

STOP 2 - The Sir Samuel Kelly Lifeboat
The Sir Samuel Kelly was one of the lifeboats involved when the Princess Victoria car ferry sank as she crossed from Scotland (Stranraer) to Ulster (Larne) in a dreadful storm on 31st January 1953.  The Donaghadee lifeboat managed to save 33 people: but over 130 people drowned that day.  The lifeboat has achieved an iconic status locally and is presently undergoing conservation work.  It will become the showpiece of a new public interpretation space examining the maritime heritage of Donaghadee.

Head to the other end of the town - you will see the spire in the distance as you make for:

STOP 3 - Donaghadee Parish Church
There has been a church on this site since at least 1622: the oldest part of the building at the base of the tower was possibly a late medieval tower-house used as a town dwelling for the Anglo-Normans; but the church that we see today was built by Hugh Montgomery in 1626 - a plaque above the front door commemorates this.

You will pass an enjoyable hour or so exploring the old graveyard: many of the stones are from the 17th century and commemorate early Ulster-Scots settlers, while others are the graves of seafarers, merchants and fishermen.  See if you can find William Scott, Mariner, who died December 20, 1660; or the one engraved, “Here underlyeth the body of Jean Mackgwear, wife to Alixander Milling of Downodie. Who lived well and died well, January 28 1660”.  Clue - they are to the left of the church if you approach from the front.
 
Now stroll back into the town and enjoy a coffee or an ice-cream; or even some lunch, before driving to the next stop.

 
Groomsport

Tradition holds that it was Vikings who first built the pier in Groomsport, however, its Ulster-Scots history began when Sir James Hamilton welcomed Scottish tenants to settle here in the early 1600s.

Just a few decades later, the first recorded passenger ship to leave Ulster and head for North America departed from the harbour at Groomsport.  In 1636, ‘Eagle Wing’ set off for Boston carrying four Presbyterian ministers and 136 members of their congregations from Counties Antrim and Down, seeking a fresh start in the New World.  The emigrants never made it: storms meant the ship returned to Ulster but this episode is still considered the ‘spark’ that lit the flame of emigration.  

STOP 1 - Cockle Row Cottages
Groomsport has long been associated with fishing, and in the 1700s, little cottages built from local stone were the main dwellings for local fishermen. Cockle Row gives you a chance to experience how these hardy folk lived.

STOP 2 - The Green
Stroll up the main street towards the Green to find a little memorial stone, with beautiful views back towards the harbour.  This stone marks the arrival here, in August 1689, of the Duke of Schomberg, Commander in Chief of King William III’s advance party of 10,000 soldiers.  This vanguard anticipated the King’s arrival the following year when he defeated King James II at the Battle of the Boyne.

We’ve one more stop on the tour - so back in the car and continue round to the City of Bangor - awarded city status by Her Late Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II, in 2022.

Bangor

Bangor’s history dates from the Bronze Age and, in the Christian era, the town was the site of a monastery renowned throughout Europe for its learning and scholarship.

However, its Ulster-Scots history began properly with the arrival of Sir James Hamilton in the early 17th century.   By 1611 the town contained 80 new houses “all inhabited with Scotyshmen and Englishmen” and, the next year, King James I made Bangor a borough which meant they could elect two MPs to the Irish Parliament in Dublin.  He also gave Bangor ‘port status’ in 1620 and within two decades it had become the second wealthiest port in Ulster, after Carrickfergus.  To explore more of the town’s Ulster-Scots history, let’s begin at the oldest building….

STOP 1 - Bangor Abbey
When the Scots under Sir James Hamilton arrived in Bangor, they found the old abbey in ruins.  Sir James’s stone masons reused some of the original stones to rebuild the church.  You can arrange to visit Bangor Abbey and view some magnificent old Scottish gravestones in the foyer, including that of Reverend John Gibson, a Scottish minister who was appointed the first curate of Bangor and Dean of Down.  

Outside the Abbey, see if you can find two gravestones.  One is close to the front gate and commemorates WG Lyttle, an author, newspaper editor and entertainer.  He wrote three novels - Sons of the Sod, Daft Eddie or the Smugglers of Strangford Lough and his most famous book - Betsy Gray and the Hearts of Down.  Much of the dialogue in these books is written in Ulster-Scots and the novels are set amongst rural Ulster-Scots, giving fascinating social insights.

The second gravestone is close to the side gate at the town-side of the abbey and commemorates John Simpson, Assistant Surgeon on the ill-fated RMS Titanic.

Now, walk across the green towards the town, following a waymarked trail which gives some ecclesiastical history, until you come to:

STOP 2 - Bangor Castle and North Down Museum
Sir James Hamilton built his first home near this site c. 1615 and planted formal gardens: however, that house was replaced twice and the building you see today was built in 1852 for Robert Edward Ward.  Designed by a Scottish architect, using Ayrshire stone, it cost £9k.  The manor house included stables, a walled garden and an impressive arboretum - all of which are worth a visit.

The stables today house North Down Museum which has an impressive collection of artefacts, exhibitions and experiences.  Of particular note are the digitised ‘Raven Maps’ - a series of beautiful maps drawn for Sir James Hamilton in 1625.  The mapmaker, Thomas Raven, detailed the extent of the lands owned by Sir James as well as the names of the Scottish settlers who were now building homes and farming here.  They give an insight into early 17th century Ulster-Scots settlement patterns and practices.

Also look out for the famous Bonar sun dial.  This was commissioned by Sir James Hamilton for his church.  John Bonar was a craftsman from Ayr in Scotland, and his sundial (which dates from 1630) is elaborately carved in slate and could tell the time by sun or moonlight, as well as give tidal information.  It is inscribed with rhymes about the weather, Biblical texts and gems of wisdom.  
Only 3 other Bonar dials are known.  

Head into the town itself, making your way down to the harbour to find:

STOP 3 - The Old Custom House
Built by Sir James Hamilton in 1637 after the King gave ‘port status’ to the town, this is one of the oldest buildings in Ireland to have been in continual use - ever since those early days when Sir James charged taxes on ships coming into and out of Bangor. The Scottish Baronial architecture is unique in Bangor and the only building of its type in an urban area.

Down by the shore, you are again looking out to sea and you can imagine the boatloads of Scottish settlers arriving here in the early years of the 17th century to begin their new life as Ulster-Scots.

Bangor is full of places to stroll, get something to eat or drink, observe the hustle and bustle, and enjoy daily life in this ancient ‘new’ city.

Day 3 | Looking Across the Water

MILLISLE / BALLYWALTER / BALLYHALBERT / PORTAVOGIE / CLOUGHEY / PORTAFERRY

Today is all about the scenery as we drive down the easternmost side of the peninsula, with lots of optional stop-offs at the little villages and towns which dot the North Down and Ards area.  We will begin just south of Donaghadee which we saw on Day 2.

STOP 1 - Millisle
Millisle means ‘Island of the Mill’ and this is a historic little village with a lot of character.  In 1837, the Ordnance Survey Memoir for Millisle noted, “The dialect of the people is almost completely Scotch and they have altogether a great resemblance to their Scotch neighbours”.  Walk along the main street or enjoy the fresh air at the beach with views across to Scotland.

At one time the village had two corn mills which belonged to the Carmichael family, originally from Ayrshire in Scotland.  As Christians, they treated the workers in their mills kindly.  Stroll along the street to the Baptist Church where you will see a blue plaque which commemorates Amy Carmichael, an inspiring missionary born here in 1867 and who served for many years in India.

It is worth making a short detour inland now to visit: 

STOP 2 - Ballycopeland Windmill
Lowland Scottish families in the early 1600s needed mills to grind their corn into flour. Lady Montgomery of the Ards provided money to build water-mills in all the local parishes; and soon wind power was also being used to drive mills.  There were well over 100 windmills in County Down in the 1800s, many around the Ards Peninsula - an excellent grain-growing area which for a time became known as“Little Holland”. This recently restored, fully-working windmill, is a wonderful attraction. Find out more about Ballycopeland Windmill.

STOP 3 - Ballywalter
Continuing south on the shore road, you will reach Ballywalter, a pretty village with a spotlessly clean, golden beach, restored lime kilns, and a harbour dating back to the mid 1800s.  On a good day, Scotland is clearly visible and the Ulster-Scots links are very strong here with a local Ulster-Scots society organising regular events.  When Scottish settlers arrived here, they called the area ‘Whitkirk’ after the whitewashed church.  

The Presbyterians of Ballywalter participated in the 1798 Rebellion: a contemporary newspaper report said: “those involved in the rebellion met with musket fire and 9 people from the parish of Ballywalter were killed with a further 13 wounded.”

To see the graves of some of those who died, take the road on the north side of the village which leads you to:

STOP 4 - Old Graveyard - ‘Whitkirk’, Ballywalter
This ancient graveyard is one of the most important burial places in North Down and the Ards.  Within it are the ruins of an Anglo-Norman church dating back to the 13th century.  When the Ulster-Scots arrived in the 17th century, Sir James Hamilton restored the old church and installed his nephew, James Hamilton, as minister here in 1626.

Since 1704, when a new church was built at nearby Balligan, the site has been used purely as a graveyard. Here can be found memorials to many of Ulster-Scots ancestry, stretching back to the early 17th century. Sailors, sea captains, fishermen and farm labourers lie with soldiers and teachers. 

See if you can find the stone of the Maxwell Brothers who were killed at the Battle of Newtownards in the 1798 Rebellion; it’s a horizontal stone underneath a yew tree, just beside the church ruins.  You will spend at least an hour browsing this fascinating place with its quaint inscriptions, some in poetry, lovely engravings and sense of peace.

Then, return to the shore and continue south, keeping the Irish Sea on your left hand side.

STOP 5 - Ballyhalbert
The next village you reach is Ballyhalbert where you might like to visit the old graveyard with its evocative church ruins.  Take time to read an interpretive signage board with information about the World War 2 airfield located here, and the famous Polish squadrons who trained and flew practice flights along this coastline.  

Just south of the village, you will notice signs indicating ‘Burr Point’ - the most easterly point of mainland Ireland at longitude 5.43ºW.  Stroll along the old pier, or take a photo at the Big E, a sculpture in the public carpark, created by artist Ned Jackson Smyth.  On a good day, you will enjoy lovely views of Galloway in Scotland.

STOP 6 - Portavogie
The beginnings of a settlement in the Portavogie area date from the mid 1500s when this area was home to a small community of farmers and fishermen who probably arrived here from Scotland.  Sir James Hamilton became the landlord here in the early 17th century and could easily see the potential of the rich fishing grounds for his Scottish tenants.

Today Portavogie still has a distinctively Ulster-Scots character and is home to Northern Ireland’s second largest fishing harbour.  Stop off here for a bite of lunch - what about fish’n’chips or chowder, made with the village’s famous prawns?  Stroll along the promenade, or watch the boats in the harbour: you’ll probably even catch a glimpse of the harbour seals.

STOP 7 - Cloughey
The scenic little village of Cloughey enjoys uninterrupted views across the Irish Sea and is worth a stop to enjoy the boardwalk, the fresh air, the bird life and the beautiful, unspoilt beach.  

STOP 8 - Portaferry
Our final stop, Portaferry stands at the southern end of the Ards Peninsula, near the entrance to Strangford Lough.  Famous for Northern Ireland's on aquariu, Exploris Aquarium and Seal Sanctuary, annual gala, and historic ferry service, it is also home to the Queen’s University Marine Research Laboratory, a Lifeboat service, and some lovely Georgian architecture.

Begin your visit at the highest spot in the vicinity, Windmill Hill, to get a good view over the village, across the Lough, and behind you to Scotland on the far side of the Irish Sea.  This old windmill was built in 1771 but burnt down on Christmas Day 1878.

Back in the village, you’ll see the ruins of an old castle.  In 1623, the owner, Patrick Savage, married the daughter of Sir Hugh Montgomery, thereby uniting the new Scots settlers with the original Gaelic tenants of this part of the peninsula.  

A most unusual building in Portaferry is the old Presbyterian Meeting House, which looks more like a Greek Temple!  Built in 1839, it is home now to The Portico of Ards and you can visit, by arrangement, to see an excellent exhibition which includes a section on the Ulster-Scots history of this area.  On the southern side of the church is a blue plaque commemorating Reverend William Steele Dickson (1744-1824), a former minister at this church who was implicated in the 1798 Rebellion and imprisoned for a time in Scotland.  

Portaferry is another great place to park, walk around, explore the beautiful trails in Nugent’s Wood, enjoy an ice-cream whilst watching the ferry boat, or have something to eat and drink in one of the various hostelries.

That concludes our 3-day Ulster-Scots themed tour of North Down and the Ards Peninsula.  Leaving Portaferry, you can return north on the ‘inside’ of the peninsula, or take the ferry across Strangford Lough and wind your way back via the village of Killinchy (where there is an excellent exhibition in the Parish Church about Reverend Livingston, a 17th century Ulster-Scots minister) and the town of Comber which has also got many strong Ulster-Scots links and was the home town of Thomas Andrews, chief maritime architect of RMS Titanic.

Find accommodation in the area.

Find out more about 'Ulster-Scots in Ards and North Down'

Suggested itinerary created by Tour Guide Lolly Spence of Hidden Ulster Tours.

Note – Please check with inidividual attractions for opening hours before travelling.

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